Hair removal

Hair removal

Hair plays an important role in gender expression. And hair removal is a goal for many trans, Two-Spirit and non-binary people.

Hair removal appointment

Important note

The information provided on this website is for informational purposes only and should not replace professional medical advice. Some medications and health conditions can affect the skin's sensitivity, thinning, or ability to heal, making some hair removal techniques higher risk for some complications. It can be helpful to consult with a medical practitioner about which hair removal technique(s) may be best for you.

There are several ways to remove facial or body hair. There are several short-term hair removal options and more permanent methods, each with its own perks and limitations.

To help you make an informed decision about which approach is best for you, we’ve broken down this topic into three sections:

  1. Short-term hair removal (including shaving, waxing, threading and more).
  2. Long-term or permanent hair removal (such as electrology and laser hair removal) 
  3. Medically necessary Treatments, procedures or services that health care professionals determine are essential for diagnosing or treating a medical condition based on established medical guidelines and individual patient needs. hair removal (pre-surgical hair removal for certain procedures)

1. Short-term hair removal methods

There are plenty of short-term hair removal methods available. Choosing the one that’s right for you may involve some trial and error. After reviewing the information below, it can be helpful to talk to others who use these short-term methods. Advice based on their firsthand experience may help you decide which methods suits you best.

Estrogen-based hormone therapy has minimal effect on reducing hair growth. Many people taking these hormones are unsatisfied with the degree of hair reduction they experience.

Testosterone-based hormone therapy leads to increased body and facial hair, which you may or may not wish to remove. The presence or absence of hair can be an important part of your gender expression How a person outwardly communicates their gender, including name and pronoun choice, style of dress, and voice modulation. (Source: QMUNITY) .

Considerations for short-term hair removal

There are several factors you should consider when choosing a short-term hair removal method 

  • Your hair removal goal — The hair removal options available depend on your goal, how often or conveniently you can remove your hair and whether the hair removal is pre-surgical. 
  • Your health history and medication use — Tell your hair removal provider about your health history and medications you take. Certain health issues or medications may affect some hair removal methods. In each method below, we’ve outlined some safety tips to help you make the best hair removal decision for yourself. 
  • Your ability to afford the service — Generally, the costs for short-term hair removal methods are low, and the price depends on if you are using home-based or service-based methods.
  • Your hair removal provider — Find a hair removal service provider who is experienced, knowledgeable and comes recommended in providing gender-affirming service.

Shaving

Shaving is a hair removal process that involves using a razor or a similar tool to remove hair from the surface of the skin. Common ways to shave include:

  • Dry shaving with a foil or rotary head electric razor
  • Wet shaving with a razor blade — which cuts hairs closer to the surface, producing a smoother shave

For wet shaving, use a shaving lather or gel to soften the hair and cause it to stand straight Someone who is primarily attracted to people of the "opposite" gender within a binary understanding of gender. up., This product makes the hair easier to cut and minimizes skin irritation.

Contrary to popular belief, shaving does not make the hair grow back thicker.

Before dry and wet shaving, some people use a pre-shave lotion to remove sweat and oil from the skin, making for a smoother shave.

After either method, you can apply aftershave to soothe any discomfort the razor causes to your face.

Ways to minimize irritation:

  • Use a clean, sharp razor
  • Shave every other day, rather than daily
  • Keep the skin loose (not pulled tight) while shaving
  • Avoid shaving over the same area multiple times
  • Use mild, scent-free shaving cleanser
  • Use a scent-free aftershave that contains witch hazel, alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or salicylic acid

Shaving pros

  • Fast
  • Inexpensive
  • Cheap
  • Painless
  • Convenient

Shaving cons

  • Hair grows back in one to four days
  • Hair growth feels stubbly
  • May cause ingrown hairs, folliculitis A skin condition in which hair follicles become inflamed. (a skin condition in which hair follicles become inflamed), rash or cuts

Safety tips

If you have diabetes or use blood thinners, shave using an electric razor rather than a manual one. Do not share razors with others to avoid transmitting infections.

Plucking

Plucking involves using tweezers to remove the entire hair from the follicle, including the root, one hair at a time. It is most practical for small areas like the eyebrows. Make sure you pluck the hair in the direction you want it to grow.

Do not pluck areas where you might want to have electrolysis. Plucking distorts the hair follicle, making it more difficult for electrologists to remove.        

Plucking pros

  • Easy 
  • Inexpensive
  • Effects last two to six weeks (longer than shaving)

Plucking cons

  • Can be tedious plucking one hair at a time
  • Sometimes painful, especially in sensitive areas (numbing with ice before plucking can help reduce discomfort) 
  • Hair may grow back thicker, darker and faster 
  • May lead to ingrown hairs if the hair breaks off below the skin’s surface

Safety tips

Do not pluck nose hairs, clip them instead to avoid infection.

Be aware that some companies market electronic tweezers as home electrolysis units. Unlike electrolysis, electronic tweezers do not offer permanent hair removal. They also emit radiation, so always follow the instructions if using these devices.

Threading (khite or fatlah)

Threading (also known as khite or fatlah) has been used in the Middle East for centuries. It involves rolling a long, twisted cotton thread against the skin to pluck several hairs at once. It’s commonly used to remove facial hair, including hair from the cheeks, ears and forehead.

Threading pros

  • Professional threading is inexpensive compared to professional plucking
  • Quick 
  • Well tolerated by people with sensitive skin because it does not use potentially irritating substances
  • Many consider it to be less painful than plucking, waxing or electrolysis
  • Can be done more often than waxing or plucking because even short hairs can be removed
  • Results last two to six weeks

Threading cons

  • Mass plucking can cause irritation and itching
  • Ineffective for large parts of the body
  • May lead to folliculitis (a skin condition in which hair follicles become inflamed), which can lead to changes in skin pigmentation

Safety tips

Do not use this method on broken, irritated or sunburned skin or skin with active eczema, psoriasis or herpes lesions.

Waxing

Waxing is the second most popular method, next to shaving. This hair removal option pulls hairs out at the level of the hair bulb. It involves applying a layer of hot or cold wax to the skin and then quickly pulling it off. The two standard methods are:

  • Non-strip (hard wax) — this option causes less irritation
  • Strip (hot wax) — this option is faster but the hair grows back irregularly, rather than in one direction

Waxing pros

  • Results last six to eight weeks 
  • Hair often grows back softer 
  • Many people have reduced hair growth after multiple treatments

Waxing cons

  • Wax can irritate the skin, causing redness, bumps, swelling and folliculitis (a skin condition where hair follicles become inflamed) that can lead to skin pigmentation changes (these side effects are more common with facial waxing) 
  • Incorrect waxing can cause burns, bruising or skin removal
  • It can be messy and painful
  • You must be willing to have stubble or regrowth of 2–3 mm until the hairs are long enough to be waxed again

Safety tips

  • Do not wax sensitive areas like the eyelids, ears, nose or nipple area
  • Do not wax your own eyebrows, as wax can drip into your eyelashes or eyes
  • Avoid tanning 24 hours before and after waxing

Waxing is not safe for everyone. If you are performing your own waxing treatment, follow the kit’s instructions. If you are paying a waxing practitioner, they will assess whether waxing is appropriate for you.

Ask your health care provider if waxing is safe for you. Waxing is not an option for people who have:

  • A blood or circulatory disorder
  • Epilepsy
  • Diabetes
  • Hemophilia
  • Inflamed or irritated skin
  • Lupus

You can not wax an area that has:

  • A fracture or sprain
  • An active herpes outbreak
  • Varicose veins
  • A sunburn
  • Scar tissue
  • Moles
  • Skin tags
  • Warts

Several medical treatments react negatively with waxing, including:

  • Accutane
  • Blood thinners
  • Chemotherapy
  • Differin
  • Radiation
  • Retin-A
  • Tetracycline

Sugaring

Sugaring uses a syrup made from sugar, water and lemon juice to grab many hairs at once and remove them at the bulb. The way it is used is similar to waxing. To use this hair removal option, hair must be 2–3 mm long before treatment. Sugaring can be used on any area except full beards, the nostrils, inner ears or genitals.

There are two methods of sugaring:

  1. Application and removal by hand — a slower but gentler technique
  2. Application by spatula with removal by cotton strip — a faster and therefore less expensive sugaring option (you save money with a shorter appointment time) 

For faces that do not have a lot of facial hair, hand-applied sugaring is preferable to waxing because it does not distort the hair follicle.

Sugaring pros

  • You can wait six to 12 weeks between treatments, and this time may increase the more you use this method alone. 
  • Less skin irritation compared to waxing, as sugaring uses all natural ingredients
  • Minimal or no risk of burning or bruising
  • No risk of skin removal
  • The same area can be treated more than once without irritation
  • Regrowth is softer and less dense
  • Clean-up is easy because the syrup is water soluble and has natural antiseptic properties, which reduce bacteria and the chance of breakouts

Sugaring cons

  • Some pain, but not as much as waxing
  • Possible side effects include folliculitis (a skin condition where hair follicles become inflamed) and ingrown hairs, but these are less common with hand-applied sugaring

Safety tips

Follow your practitioner’s after-care advice. This will likely include instructions to avoid fragrances and deodorants on treated areas and avoid sun and tanning beds for 48 hours.

There are some people who should not use this method of hair removal. Get your doctor’s approval if you have phlebitis, diabetes or hemophilia.

Your sugaring practitioner will do an assessment to determine if sugaring is safe for you and, if so, which method is most appropriate.

If you are performing your own spatula-applied sugaring treatment, get your doctor’s approval.

If you are performing your own hand-applied sugaring treatment, avoid treating areas that are chapped, broken or sunburned. Do not apply a sugaring treatment near areas that have:

  • Pimples
  • Pustules
  • Moles
  • Skin tags
  • Warts
  • Active herpes outbreaks

Chemical depilatories

A chemical depilatory is a paste, cream or lotion that is left on the skin for three to 15 minutes, depending on the brand. The compound breaks down the hair’s protein structure, causing the hairs to break off, so they can be wiped away.

Chemical depilatories are usually used on the arms and legs. They are typically more effective on light, fine hair than dark, coarse hair.

Chemical depilatories pros

  • Usually painless
  • Hair grows back in approximately two to 10 days (a bit slower than shaving) 
  • Regrowth feels softer

Chemical depilatories cons

  • Can cause skin and eye irritation
  • May not be a suitable method if you are sensitive to scents

Safety tips

Always follow the product’s instructions. Do not use this method on any skin that is irritated, broken or has signs of infection. Do not use these on your face unless the label specifies that it is safe to do so. Do not use these products on any skin close to mucous membranes, like the vagina An internal organ located between the legs. A person may be born with a vagina or have one surgically created. When referring to genitals, the Trans Care BC website uses "internal genitals (vagina)" for trans people assigned female at birth (AFAB), and "vagina" or "vagina with vaginoplasty" for trans people assigned male at birth (AMAB), but there are many different terms that individuals may use. or anus.

2. Long-term or permanent hair removal methods

Electrology and laser removal are two options for long-term or permanent hair removal.

Electrolysis

Electrolysis uses electric current to remove hair by destroying the root of each hair follicle, which prevents future hair growth. It is the only permanent method of hair removal. For best results, it is crucial to work with a skilled electrologist.

There are three methods of electrolysis, each of which uses a different type of electric current:

  1. Thermolysis — this option allows for fast removal of fine hair with shallow to medium-straight follicles.
  2. Galvanic electrolysis — this type of electrolysis has the highest success rate for lack of hair regrowth. It is the slowest method, which may make it more uncomfortable. It works on distorted hair follicles, as well as deep hair follicles. This treatment can be followed by cataphoresis, a low-level electrical treatment that soothes the skin and prevents infection, which reduces redness and provides effective antibacterial protection.
  3. Blend — this treatment is a combination of galvanic electrolysis and thermolysis. It is the most popular method in North America. It combines the currents of the previous two methods to treat a range of hair types. This includes kinky and curly hairs and hairs with distorted follicles.

Electrolysis pros

  • Electrolysis can successfully remove all types of hair, regardless of colour, texture or stage of growth
  • It can also successfully remove hair on all skin colours and types (for example, dry, oily or mature) 
  • It can be performed just about anywhere on the body, except the inside of the nose and ear
  • After each treatment, any hair that regrows will be finer and lighter

Electrolysis cons

  • These treatments are expensive (anywhere from $25 to $250 an hour) 
  • Repeated treatments are required over a long time(around one to four years for thick facial hair)
  • It is also painful (over-the-counter and prescription topical anesthetics can help with pain management)
  • Common side effects include temporary redness, bumps, swelling and scabbing
  • Incorrect treatment methods can lead to blanching (temporary whitening of the skin), pitting or dimpling of the skin Incorrect galvanic electrolysis treatment can result in tattooing (permanent black marks on the skin) 

Safety tips

After electrolysis, the treated area is prone to infection. Follow your electrologist’s after-care instructions. This will include information about: 

  • Cleansing your skin
  • Using soothing products
  • Avoiding makeup for a day
  • Avoiding tanning 
  • Avoiding plucking

There are some home electrolysis devices on the market, however, performing electrolysis on yourself is very difficult, even for skilled electrologists. The consequences of inaccurate needle insertion can be severe and include permanent scarring.

There are some health conditions that may prevent you from safely undergoing electrolysis, such as high blood pressure or epilepsy. Ask your doctor if electrolysis is a safe hair removal option for you.

Laser hair removal

Laser hair removal offers long-term, but not permanent, hair reduction on all parts of the body, except the eyebrow and ear. Lasers treat an area of skin rather than one follicle at a time like electrolysis does.

It is important to know that not all hair and skin types are a fit for laser hair removal. It is most effective when hair and skin colour are in high contrast, such as dark hair on light skin. Laser hair removal is generally ineffective on blond, strawberry blond, white or gray hair. Dark brown and black skin also has a much higher risk of burns, scars and hyperpigmentation (permanent darkening of the skin) with this treatment.

To maximize the effectiveness of this treatment, stop all methods of hair removal other than shaving or depilatory creams at least 10 weeks before laser hair removal treatment. Shaving and clipping may be done up to two days before treatment. 

Devices

There are many different laser devices used for hair removal. The most common are:

  • NeoDymium Yttrium Aluminum Garnets (Nd:YAG)
  • Ruby Lasers
  • Alexandrite Lasers
  • Diode Lasers

Laser machines used for hair removal, as noted by Health Canada, “operate with high emission levels and are therefore designated in the highest hazard classes (Class 3B & Class 4)”.

This statement means it is crucial to work with a skilled, experienced and well-recommended laser hair removal provider who follows all safety measures when providing this service. Health Canada has Safety Guidelines for Facility Owners and Operators to follow; however, monitoring of their use is currently not in place in B.C.

Laser hair removal pros

  • Fast 
  • Long-lasting
  • May produce some permanent results. 
  • Some people find it less painful than electrolysis 
  • Hair is often finer and lighter when or if it regrows

Laser hair removal cons

  • Professional laser hair removal is expensive 
  • It requires several treatments, typically three to six (or sometimes more)
  • Side effects can include temporary swelling, bumps, crusting, redness, singed hairs that look like tiny black spots and temporary skin discoloration
  • More serious complications include blistering, permanent skin discolouration, scarring, intense itchiness and hives

Safety tips

Follow your practitioner’s advice regarding aftercare in order to minimize side effects and complications. This will likely include instructions about: 

  • Avoiding hot baths for 24 to 48 hours
  • Using clean cold packs to soothe the treatment area
  • Applying soothing ointments to keep the area lubricated 
  • Avoiding sun exposure, make-up and lotions for a period of time following treatment

Laser hair removal is an evolving industry that is unregulated in Canada. Training standards and equipment are highly variable. There is also limited research about the long-term effectiveness of laser hair removal. We recommend talking to a knowledgeable professional and doing your research before you engage with laser hair removal treatments.

If you have a health condition or use medication, you may not be a good candidate for laser hair removal. Do not use this method if you take Accutane, tetracycline or Retin-A. 

People with the following conditions should not use laser hair removal:

  • Albinism
  • Cold sores
  • Diabetes
  • Epilepsy
  • History of keloid scarring
  • Nervous disorders
  • Open wounds
  • Sunburn
  • Those who are pregnant

If the area you wish to have treated has a birthmark or mole, have the treatment approved by your health care provider first.

Considerations for electrology & laser hair removal

When deciding what type of long-term hair removal treatment to use, you’ll want to take into account:

Your hair removal goal

The hair removal options available depend on your goal and how often or conveniently you can remove your hair. If your hair removal is pre-surgical, see the Pre-Surgical Hair Removal section.

Your hair and skin type

For electrolysis and laser hair removal, your hair colour and skin type will affect the recommended method. A combination of these treatments are generally recommended; however, electrolysis is the only method that should be used for hair removal for individuals who have:

  • Light hair (blonde, strawberry blond, red, white, or grey hair)
  • Dark skin

Tip

Ask for a patch or site test — work with your hair removal provider to try a patch or site test prior to starting your treatment. This helps determine if you have adverse reactions to the treatment.

Your health history and medication use 

Tell your hair removal provider about health history and medications that might impact the selected hair removal method. Read the safety tips for each hair removal method because electrolysis and laser hair removal should be used with caution.

Your budget 

What you can afford can impact your hair removal goal. Electrolysis and laser hair removal are costly and can take time and commitment to meet the hair removal results you seek. Costs in B.C. can range from:

  • $55 to $250 per hour for electrolysis (some people need up to 300 hours to achieve permanent hair removal) 
  • $125 to $250 per laser hair removal session (each treatment area can take up to eight sessions)

Tip

Know your budget and discuss it with your hair removal provider to determine whether you can afford to complete the full recommended hours or sessions for your chosen method. On occasion, providers may provide a package rate or lowered rates for clients.

Finding a good fit

Find a hair removal service provider who is experienced, knowledgeable and comes recommended in providing gender-affirming service. This is especially important when looking for an electrologist or laser hair removal provider, as there can be high risks with these methods. Damage done may be permanent (such as skin burn) which can impact your hair removal goals — especially for pre-surgical hair removal.        

In B.C., hair removal services are unregulated. Some electrologists and laser hair removal providers may have certifications or designations to prove their level of competency, however, there are no specific provincial regulations in place for their professions, operations and use.

When choosing a hair removal provider, you can seek out recommendations from:

  • Trans, Two-Spirit A term used within some Indigenous communities to reflect complex Indigenous understandings of gender and sexuality and the long history of sexual and gender diversity in Indigenous cultures. Two-Spirit encompasses sexual, gender, cultural and spiritual identity. It may refer to cross-gender, multi-gender or non-binary gender roles, non-heterosexual identities, and a range of cultural identities, roles and practices embodied by Two-Spirit peoples. Some people also use "2-Spirit" or "2S." (Source: Battered Women’s Support Services) and non-binary Umbrella term referring to people whose gender does not fall within the binary gender system of woman/girl or man/boy. Some individuals identify as non-binary while others may use terms such as gender non-conforming, genderqueer, or agender. Non-binary people may or may not conform to societal expectations for their gender expression and gender role, and they may or may not seek gender-affirming medical or surgical care. community members, friends and family members
  • Organizations in your area that support trans, Two-Spirit or non-binary people
  • Your health care providers may have recommendations to share 

Contact the Trans Care BC health navigation team for information

When choosing a hair removal provider, be sure they:

  • Have experience working with trans clients (using correct pronouns and respectful language) and are knowledgeable in the hair removal goals you need.
  • Offer a site/patch test to ensure the hair removal method is suitable for you.
  • Run a sanitary practice. Ask about their needle disposal method (for electrolysis) or other one-time use supplies as well as the last inspection by an Environmental Public Health Officer.
  • Have a business license (according to municipal requirements) and hold insurance.

For additional suggestions, read Hair Facts: Choosing an electrologist.

Pain management options 

Electrolysis and laser hair removal feels a bit like getting a tattoo. Speak with your hair removal provider if pain is a concern. Options for pain management can include distraction through video, music, conversation, virtual reality, oral pain medication or topical anesthetic (such as EMLA, Zensa, BLT or Tetracaine). 

Your expectations

Results of hair removal can differ by individual as well as the experience and skill of the provider. Keep in mind there will be varying results, side effects and limitations of the treatment for each individual.

Lifestyle and hormone changes affect your treatment plan

Attend hair removal treatment sessions as planned and notify your hair removal service provider if any changes occur in your diet and hormones so your treatment plan can be adjusted.

Additional hair removal resources

Find more information on electrolysis and laser hair removal at the Centre for Excellence for Transgender Health: Hair Removal

3. Medically necessary (or pre-surgical) hair removal

The Gender Surgery Program B.C. (GSPBC) recommends permanent hair removal prior to certain gender-affirming genital surgeries.

Some genital surgeries require medically necessary or pre-surgical hair removal on areas that are difficult to treat after surgery and are known to increase the risk of complications postoperatively. The GSPBC recommends permanent hair removal before the following procedures:

Phalloplasty with urethral lengthening

Pre-surgical, permanent hair removal via electrolysis is required. This hair removal is done on the strip of skin that becomes the urethra for phalloplasty A gender-affirming lower surgery to create a penis and scrotal sac (phase 1) followed by testicular implants and implants to obtain rigidity/erection (phases 2 and 3). . It is funded by the B.C. Ministry of Health and brokered through PHSA (Provincial Health Services Authority — Trans Care BC) who contracts with hair removal vendors. Funding only covers the section of the graft A surgical procedure in which one section of healthy skin is removed from a part of the body and used in another location (or in the same location in the case of nipple grafts). required for urethral lengthening A surgical procedure to extend the length of the urethra to allow for urination out of the tip of the penis. The procedure involves connecting a person's current urethra to the new urethra created in the shaft of the penis. .

Vaginoplasty

Pre-surgical hair removal is strongly recommended and, in some cases, required. This hair removal is done on the area of the genitals that will become the internal cavity for vaginoplasty A gender-affirming genital surgery to create a vulva (including mons, labia, clitoris and urethral opening) and vagina. . It is funded by the B.C. Ministry of Health and brokered through PHSA (Provincial Health Services Authority — Trans Care BC) who contracts with hair removal vendors.

The hair removal approach is determined on an individualized basis with the surgical team. 

  • Hair removal for vaginoplasty is, ideally, done pre-operatively via electrolysis, laser or a combination of laser and electrolysis.
  • You can discuss alternate options with the surgical team if significant barriers exist with hair removal. In some cases, manual hair cautery A medical technique that uses heat to burn or seal tissues to stop bleeding or remove unwanted tissue. may be possible during surgery. 
  • The decision not to do pre-surgical hair removal should only be decided after an informed consent discussion with the surgical team.

Pre-surgical hair removal funding

There is funding available for medically necessary hair removal. 

The Gender Surgery Program B.C. surgeons make this funding recommendation at your surgical consult and will provide you with a recommendation letter.

Before beginning a treatment plan, you will need to be:

  • Referred to the Gender Surgery Program B.C. by your primary care provider A person’s main health care provider in non-emergency situations such as check-ups and referrals. Family doctors, general practitioners (GPs) and nurse practitioners (NPs) are all primary care providers.  
  • Contacted by the surgical team to set up your surgical consult where you will discuss hair removal requirements
  • Given an information package (if pre-surgical hair removal is recommended by your surgeon) that includes a:
    • Recommendation letter
    • Diagram of where hair removal should be completed
    • List of PHSA-approved hair removal vendors

From there, you can:

  • Contact a hair removal vendor from the PHSA approved vendors list to schedule an appointment. Provide your hair removal recommendation letter to the vendor so they know your hair removal is funded. PHSA pays the providers directly, so you will not have to pay the provider.
  • Share a diagram of the hair removal regions with the vendors. Include the diagram for the following:
    • The strip of skin on the arm or thigh that becomes the urethra for phalloplasty
    • The area of the genitals that will become the internal cavity for vaginoplasty

Do not start hair removal before receiving your recommendation letter. The funding will not cover any hair removal expenses prior to approval. If you begin hair removal before receiving a recommendation letter from the surgery program, these expenses will be yours to pay.

Additional hair removal

There may be other areas where you would like to have hair removal done that extend past what is considered medically necessary. Any treatment on these areas would need to be negotiated with your hair removal provider and done at your own expense. 

Pain management and advocacy

Pain relief options may be useful in making hair removal more tolerable. Your hair removal vendor can provide options for funded topical pain relief and other strategies to reduce pain. 

Need support?

Contact our team of experienced health navigators for information about gender-affirming care in B.C.